Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically Callistemon spp., Bottlebrush Tree
Scientific Name(s): Callistemon spp.
Abundance: common
What: leaves, flowers
How: tea, seasoning
Where: dry sunny yards, landscaping
When: all year
Nutritional Value: flavanoids
Used often as a decorative landscaping tree, the striking red blossoms of the bottlebrush tree offer more than visual beauty. Their aroma is invigorating, somewhat minty or menthol in nature. The trees are small, rarely more than 15' tall and equally as wide. The leaves are evergreen and the blossoms also last can be found on the tree almost all year round. These flowers really explode vigorously in mid-spring and are often swarmed with bees who know a good thing when they smell it!
Both the flowers and leaves can be used to make an aromatic tea. The fresh blossoms do give a sweeter flavor than leaves. Aging the harvested leaves for two weeks helps as this breaks down the cell walls, allowing more of the flavorful compounds to escape into the tea. Flowers, being more delicate, do not benefit any from being aged and ideally are used fresh off the tree.
You can also use the leaves and flowers of the bottlebrush tree similar in manner to bay or rosemary leaves. Add several to a sauce, stew, or roasting meat to add an exotic flavor.
Mashed bottlebrush leaves rubbed on the skin is reported to keep away insects. This property may also be used to keep clothes, bedding, and houses bug free by laying sprigs of the leaves around whatever you want protected.
,[source - retrived from http://www.foragingtexas.com/2006/12/bottlebrush-tree.html on 3/23/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically the Cardamine spp., Bittercress
Scientific Name(s): Cardamine spp.
Abundance: common
What: leaves
How: raw when young, cooked when older
Where: moist shaded yards, borders, and woods
When: fall, winter (in Houston), spring
Nutritional Value: Vitamins A,Bs,C,K and minerals
Bittercress pops up when most everything else is brown. Look for it yards, flowerbeds and assorted border areas where low growing plants aren't swallowed up by taller stuff. It comes up with a rosette of deeply lobed leaves and small, white flowers which twist up the stem like a spiral staircase. After the flowers come long, thin seedpods which explode open on touch once they've matured and turned brown.
Bittercress has a wonderful horseradish flavor that is great for spicing up sandwiches and salads. The young leaves can be eaten raw while older, larger leaves can be cooked like traditional mustard greens. The seeds are too small to be ground into a mustard-style condiment but the tender, young seedpods are as good or better than the young leaves for a raw blast of flavor.
The leaves and seedpods must be chewed for a bit for the full, powerful flavor to develop. Their taste doesn't come from chemicals found in the plant but rather from the product of these chemicals as they undergo a reaction initiated by chewing. Chewing smashes the cell walls, releasing the compounds so they can react with the oxygen and water in your mouth, resulting in the excellent horseradishy punch.
Labels: Common, Fall, Green Fruit, Raw, Salad, Shade, Spring, Weed,White Flower, Winter, Woods, Yards
,[source - retrived from http://www.foragingtexas.com/2006/12/bittercress.html 3/23/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Cnidoscolus texanus, Bull Nettle
Scientific Name(s): Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Cnidoscolus texanus
Abundance: common
What: seeds, taproot
How: seeds raw, roasted; root baked
Where: sunny fields
When: summer, fall
Nutritional Value: protein, calories
Dangers: entire plant is covered in stinging hairs similar to stinging nettle.
Usually found in sunny, loose-soiled fields and other disturbed areas, these small, leggy bushes rarely grow more than two feet tall. The stinging hairs which cover bull nettle stems, leaves, and fruit offer a great protection against man and beast. While the pain they inflict is fierce, it often lasts less than an hour. The white blooms begin appearing in early spring and continue on through mid-summer. The green seed pods track the flowers by about a month.
Strangely enough, bull nettles are often commonly found growing near sassafras trees in Central and East Texas woods such as the Sam Houston National Forest. Bull nettles prefer full sun so finding them in the woods is odd, especially only in the presence of sassafras. Perhaps the sassafras root system both loosens the soil and releases some chemical which aids the bull nettles growth.
Harvesting the delicious seeds is best done using BBQ tongs or thick leather gloves to remove the seed pods from the plant. Then place these pods in a brown paper bag and wait a while (days). The pods will dry and then rupture, releasing the seeds which can then be toasted for a wonderful treat. The roasted seeds can also be pounded/ground into something similar to cornmeal and used in the same manner.
Digging up the taproot can be tricky. First, carefully cut away the top part of the plant with a machete or other long blade, then dig a hole 18" deep approximately one foot away from the stem of the plant. Carefully shave away the soil on the plant-side of the hole until you see the earth-colored root. At this point carefully remove the dirt from around the fragile root until you can lift it from the soil. Peel the root and then either roast or boil it like a potato. It will retain a bit of firmness rather than turning as soft as a potato. Through the root’s center runs a strong fiber core which needs to be discarded.
Labels: Bush, Calories, Coastal Beaches, Common, Fall, Fields, Green Fruit, Summer, Sunny, Weed, White Flower
,[source - retrived http://www.foragingtexas.com/2008/07/bull-nettle.html on 3/23/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically the Castanea pumila, Allegheny Chinkapin.
Abundance: rare
What: nuts
How: raw or roasted
Where: sandy, shaded areas near water
When: fall
Nutritional Value: calories, protein
Dangers: nut husks are very prickly
To stumble upon a stand of Allegheny Chinkapins is to stumble upon treasure. These large, usually multi-trunked bushes/small trees suffered from Chestnut Blight leading to reduced numbers across much of North America. A rare stand can still be found growing under larger trees in the sandy soil of tall banks overlooking water. The sandy soil gives them the drainage they need to avoid root-rot while the larger trees partially protects them from the fierce Texas sun. The long, narrow, sharply-toothed leaves, deep green on top and pale underneath, are arranged in an alternate pattern along the branches. In the spring long clusters of small, tan-yellow flowers hang from the tree. By fall these clusters have been replaced with sharp, spikey pods, each containing what looks like a small acorn.
Harvesting these nuts takes some work as they cling to the tree and are protected by the sharp, spiny remains of their outer husks. One usually has to carefully pick nuts off the shrub/tree one by one. You are likely to find some of the nuts have already germinated while still attached to the tree. Don't eat these but instead carefully plant them nearby.
Allegheny Chinkapin nuts lack tannins or other bitter compounds and so have a sweet, nutty flavor when eaten raw. Being so rare, limit yourself to just a nut or three. Take a few more to plant in similar locations so as to try and bring back this amazingly delicious treat. Animals love these nuts so getting them before squirrels, raccoons, possums and the such is tricky.
Like chestnuts, Allegheny Chinkapin nuts can be roasted to give almost a chocolatey sort of flavor. Place the uncracked nuts on a cookie sheet in an oven at 350F. After five minutes pull out a nut, crack it open and taste it. The roasting time is a personal preference but if the nuts' shells begin cracking it's definitely time to pull them out.
If you do over-roast the nuts they can still be used to make a caffeine-free coffee substitute. Grind the shelled nuts in a coffee grinder then either use them as is or combine them with real coffee to make a pot of brown, somewhat bitter fluid. [source - retrieved from http://www.foragingtexas.com/2012/11/allegheny-chinkapin.html on 3/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Cnidoscolus texanus, Bull Nettle
Scientific Name(s): Cnidoscolus stimulosus, Cnidoscolus texanus
Abundance: common
What: seeds, taproot
How: seeds raw, roasted; root baked
Where: sunny fields
When: summer, fall
Nutritional Value: protein, calories
Dangers: entire plant is covered in stinging hairs similar to stinging nettle.
Usually found in sunny, loose-soiled fields and other disturbed areas, these small, leggy bushes rarely grow more than two feet tall. The stinging hairs which cover bull nettle stems, leaves, and fruit offer a great protection against man and beast. While the pain they inflict is fierce, it often lasts less than an hour. The white blooms begin appearing in early spring and continue on through mid-summer. The green seed pods track the flowers by about a month.
Strangely enough, bull nettles are often commonly found growing near sassafras trees in Central and East Texas woods such as the Sam Houston National Forest. Bull nettles prefer full sun so finding them in the woods is odd, especially only in the presence of sassafras. Perhaps the sassafras root system both loosens the soil and releases some chemical which aids the bull nettles growth.
Harvesting the delicious seeds is best done using BBQ tongs or thick leather gloves to remove the seed pods from the plant. Then place these pods in a brown paper bag and wait a while (days). The pods will dry and then rupture, releasing the seeds which can then be toasted for a wonderful treat. The roasted seeds can also be pounded/ground into something similar to cornmeal and used in the same manner.
Digging up the taproot can be tricky. First, carefully cut away the top part of the plant with a machete or other long blade, then dig a hole 18" deep approximately one foot away from the stem of the plant. Carefully shave away the soil on the plant-side of the hole until you see the earth-colored root. At this point carefully remove the dirt from around the fragile root until you can lift it from the soil. Peel the root and then either roast or boil it like a potato. It will retain a bit of firmness rather than turning as soft as a potato. Through the root’s center runs a strong fiber core which needs to be discarded.
Labels: Bush, Calories, Coastal Beaches, Common, Fall, Fields, Green Fruit, Summer, Sunny, Weed, White Flower
,[source - retrived http://www.foragingtexas.com/2008/07/bull-nettle.html on 3/23/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
THE RARE FRUIT TREES AND VEGETABLES:
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically Cucurbita foetidissima, Buffalo Gourd
Scientific Name(s): Cucurbita foetidissima
Abundance: common
What: flower, seeds, root
How: flowers raw or fried; seeds roasted or boiled; root as tea
Where: dry fields
When: summer, fall, winter
Nutritional Value: calories and protein in the seeds
Dangers: flesh of the gourd is extremely bitter and can be poisonous in large doses due to saponins.
Nose and eye find this plant at nearly the same time. The large, heart-shaped leaves and yellow, 5-petaled flowers of Buffalo Gourd give off an unpleasant smell which reminds me of nasty gym socks. Starting in mid-summer the fruit appear. Looking first like small, round watermelons these fruit eventually turn more yellow as they mature but never grow bigger than a baseball. Buffalo Gourd vines can stretch many yards from a central taproot and the beings perennials, show up in the same spot year after year. It's large taproot makes the plant very drought resistant and it grows best in the drier areas of Texas, especially in the Hill country and westward.
The flowers, similar to squash blossom, can be eaten both raw and fried. They do have a bad odor and are somewhat bitter when raw.
Buffalo gourd seeds were a staple food of early Texas Native Americans. The seeds must be completely cleaned of any gourd flesh or else they will be extremely bitter. Once completely cleaned they can be boiled and mashed into a porridge or roasted like pumpkin seeds and have a similar flavor. These seeds do contain a large amount of calories in the form of oil (25-42%) as well as a significant concentration of protein (22-35%).
The large taproot of Buffalo Gourds were to be strong medicine by Native Americans. These roots were used internally as a tea and also externally in poultices. Due to the high concentration of saponins and other potent chemicals healing with this root should only be tried under the direction of a trained herbalist!
Saponins are found in both the plant's root and in the skin of the gourds and are capable of producing a lather when vigorously combined with water. Because of this they were used as a soap substitute.
Labels: Arid/Dry, Calories, Common, Early Summer, Fall, Fields, Shade,Sunny, Tea, Vine, Winter, Yellow Flower, Yellow Fruit
,[source - retrived http://www.foragingtexas.com/2012/09/buffalo-gourd.html on 3/23/2015]
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
1) http://iris89.conforums.com/
2) http://www.network54.com/Forum/403209/
3) http://religioustruths.lefora.com/
4) http://religioustruths.boardhost.com/
5) http://religioustruths.forumsland.com/
6) http://religioustruthsbyiris.createmybb3.com/
7) http://religioustruths.forumotion.com/
To enjoy an online Bible study called “Follow the Christ” go to,http://www.network54.com/…/Digital+Book+On+18+Part+Follow+C…
Your Friend in Christ Iris89
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically Botanical name: Fuchsia 'Alberta Logue'
Other names: Fuchsia 'Alberta Logue'
Genus: Fuchsia
Variety or Cultivar: 'Alberta Logue' _ 'Alberta Logue' is a lax, bushy, deciduous shrub with ovate, toothed, dark green leaves, and, throughout summer, flowers with cream tubes, pale pink sepals, and double, red to orange-red corollas.
Fuchsia 'Alberta Logue' is: Deciduous
Flower: Pale-pink in Summer
Foliage: Dark-green in Spring; Dark-green in Summer; Dark-green in Autumn
Habit: Bushy [sourc - retrieved from http://www.shootgardening.co.uk/plant/fuchsia-alberta-logue on 3/15/2015]
GROWING WINTER HARDY FUCHSIAS in the Pacific Northwest
Fuchsias are wonderful, herbaceous garden perennials that will bloom all summer and fall. A truly hardy fuchsia (VH) on the West Coast of the Pacific Northwest (USDA Zone 7-9) usually needs no extra protection in the winter once established and begins blooming in May or June. It will continue blooming until frost! Other good hardies (H) may begin blooming before the end of July. If you live in a micro-climate that frosts rarely, try any fuchsia; you'll have good luck with several not listed here.
Fuchsias in the ground are easy to grow when you follow some guidelines for success:
Let them grow until well-rooted in pots. Bigger plants get off to a good start in the ground.Plant them after the danger of frost (mid-May to June) so that a good root system can develop. If you must plant them later, make sure that they are well-mulched that FIRST year. ( Use bark, leaves, natural insulators.)Fuchsias in the ground need light; most prefer FULL SUN at our northern latitude. Minimum is 1/2 day.Acclimatize your plants before you plant them permanently. They need to be outdoors for at least a week and be gradually worked into a sunny position. (They can sunburn, just like us!) The first spring/summer, if the leaves burn, shade them on real sunny days. The second year, they will acclimatize themselves as they grow.Plant them in a reasonably well-drained location, but plant deeply and let the soil fill in as they grow. Fertilize them with well-balanced products (~ 20-20-20; 16-16-16...). Time-released granules that activate in our cool soil are easiest.Fuchsias love food, so in March or April when they pop up from the soil and/or leaf out, feed them.Water in the morning to avoid rust. They’ll droop or get dry leaves just like other perennials when thirsty. A good watering once a week keeps a lot of plants happy in the summer. Fuchsias too.After the first frost, do NOT prune them, except maybe to make them look neater. The stems do protect them from cold. Mulch is advantageous for keeping down weeds, holding moisture, and looking tidy, but the plants with a VH, once established, do not need extra mulch to keep from freezing in winter.
If you’re wondering why this advice doesn’t sound like the advice you’ve already heard, it may be because there are basically two ways to grow fuchsias:
1.- in the ground all year, as described above, and
2.- in containers. In containers, in general, it’s shade, more frequent watering, more food and winter protection---a different treatment. [sourc - retrieved from http://www.nwfuchsiasociety.com/hardies/hardyfuchsias.htm on 3/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Fuchsias 101 – How to Eat Fuchsia Berries
September 9, 2010 by powellswood
By Jackie LaVerne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery
What?! Did that say eat fuchsia berries?!
Yes! It did!
It does not seem to be commonly known to folks who are growing fuchsias in their gardens that they are growing berries. Usually people think of those dark squishy things as a menace and a mess in their yards. But they are actually very tasty berries that can be used in many ways, including salads, muffins, tarts, garnishes, jams, jellies, even pies (although you really have to collect a lot to make pie!), and the berries are also just great to pick and eat all by themselves. And the flowers are edible too.
All fuchsias produce berries, although some varieties have much better tasting fruit than others. The berries are produced as the flowers on the plants mature and fall off. What is left behind is either a round or elliptical-shaped berry. The berries can grow to almost an inch long on some hybrids and species fuchsias, or to just 1/2-inch on the miniature Encliandra-type fuchsias. Single-bloom fuchsias produce more fruit than double-bloom fuchsias. Fuchsia berries can taste very peppery to very sweet, almost like a kiwi. The berries of Fuchsia procumbens, the groundcover fuchsia, are my personal favorite; they get very large and are very sweet.
Late summer through fall is a good time to harvest fuchsia berries. Pick the berries when they are soft and squishy; test them by tasting them to make sure that they are sweet. Be sure to use them promptly, as they do not keep well and will go bad quickly once picked. If you need to save up large quantities of fruit for a pie or tart, freeze them immediately like any other berry. When harvesting the berries keep in mind that the dark fruit will stain clothes and fingers, so remember to dress accordingly!
You can use your own berry recipes and substitute fuchsia berries, or here are two great fuchsia berry recipes to try. Do you have a favorite fuchsia berry recipe to share? We’d love to hear from you!
Fuchsia Berry Jelly
1 cup fuchsia flowers
1 cup ripe, washed fuchsia berries
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups of water (or apple juice or apple cider)
1 apple, sweet, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin
Simmer flowers, berries, sugar, lemon juice, water, and apple for 10 minutes. Let mixture cool a bit, then strain it. Add the gelatin and allow to thicken in refrigerator.
Fuchsia Berry Jam
1 lb. sugar
2 tablespoons water (or apple pectin, apple juice or cider)
juice of 1 lemon
1 ½ lb. of ripe fuchsia berries, washed
Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan and cook carefully over low heat until sugar dissolves. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Add the berries gently, folding them into the mixture so as not to break up the berries too much. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil. Boil until the mixture will set when tested on a plate. Seal in heated jars. Allow to cool completely before eating, then enjoy! [source - retrieved from http://powellswood.wordpress.com/2010/09/09/fuchsias-101-how-to-eat-fuchsia-berries/ on 12/21/2014]
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
[/size][/b]
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, Fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue'
Other names: Fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue', Fuchsia 'Prodigy', Hardy fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue'
Genus: Fuchsia
Variety or Cultivar: 'Enfant Prodigue' _ 'Enfant Prodigue' is an upright, bushy, deciduous shrub with ovate, toothed, dark green leaves, and, throughout summer, flower with red sepals and semi-double, purple to purple-blue corollas.
Fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue' is: Deciduous
Flower: Red in Summer
Foliage: Dark-green in Spring; Dark-green in Summer; Dark-green in Autumn
Habit: Upright [source - retrieved from http://www.shootgardening.co.uk/plant/fuchsia-enfant-prodigue on 3/15/2015]
Bloomtime Range:Early Summer to Late Summer USDA Hardiness Zone:9 to 11 AHS Heat Zone:Not defined for this plant Light Range:Part Shade to Full Sun pH Range:5 to 7 Soil Range:Sandy Loam to Loam Water Range:Normal to Moist
Fertilizing
How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season.Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
How-to : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.
Light
Conditions : Partial Shade
Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.
Conditions : Types of Pruning
Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.
Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.
Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Watering
Problems : Waterlogged Soil and Solutions
Waterlogged soil occurs when more water is added to soil than can drain out in a reasonable amount of time. This can be a severe problem where water tables are high or soils are compacted. Lack of air space in waterlogged soil makes it almost impossible for soil to drain. Few plants, except for bog plants, can tolerate these conditions. Drainage must be improved if you are not satisfied with bog gardening. Over-watered plants have the same wilted leaves as under-watered plants. Fungi such as Phytophthora and Pythium affect vascular systems, which cause wilt.
If the problem is only on the surface, it maybe diverted to a drainage ditch. If drainage is poor where water table is high, install an underground drainage system. You should contact a contractor for this. If underground drains already exist, check to see if they are blocked.
French drains are another option. French drains are ditches that have been filled with gravel. It is okay to plant sod on top of them. More obtrusive, but a good solution where looks aren't as important, think of the French drain as a ditch filled with gravel. Ditches should be 3 to 4 feet deep and have sloping sides.
A soakway is a gravel filled pit where water is diverted to via underground pipes. This works well on sites that have compacted soil. Your soakway should be about 6'wide and deep and filled with gravel or crushed stone, topped with sand and sodded or seeded.
Keep in mind that it is illegal to divert water onto other people's property. If you do not feel that you can implement a workable solution on your own, call a contractor.
Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants
Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
Conditions : Moist and Well Drained
Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.
Conditions : Outdoor Watering
Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:
* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.
Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants
Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
Planting
How-to : Planting Vines & Climbers
Choose the planting site for your climber carefully: its long flexible stems may need some shelter, but planting right next to a wall might keep it from the sun or water it needs. Make sure that there's room for the climber to grow when it gets tall, and remember that it will grow towards the sun unless carefully trained. Be sure you will be able to manage the plant once it becomes tall, or that if it has a mind of its own, it won't become a problem.
Select a support structure before you plant your climber. Common support structures are trellises, wires, strings, or existing structures. Some plants, like ivy, climb by aerial roots and need no support. Aerial rooted climbers are fine for concrete and masonary, but should never be allowed to climb on wood. Clematis climbs by leaf stalks and the Passion flower by coiling tendrils. Akebia and Wisteria climb by twining stems in a spiral fashion around its support.
Do not use permanent ties; the plant will quickly outgrow them. Use soft, flexible ties (twist-ties work well), or even strips of pantyhose, and check them every few months. Make sure that your support structure is strong, rust-proof, and will last the life of the plant. Anchor your support structure before you plant your climber.
Dig a hole large enough for the root ball. Plant the climber at the same level it was in the container. Plant a little deeper for clematis or for grafted plants. Fill the hole with soil, firming as you, and water well. As soon as the stems are long enough to reach their support structure, gently and loosely tie them as necessary.
If planting in a container, follow the same guidelines. Plan ahead by adding a trellis to the pot, especially if the container will not be positioned where a support for the vine is not readily available. It is possible for vines and climbers to ramble on the ground or cascade over walls too. Clematis and Roses actually work quite well this way.
How-to : Preparing Garden Beds
Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.
A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established. [source - retrieved from http://www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pda_367b.html on 3/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Fuchsias 101 – How to Eat Fuchsia Berries
September 9, 2010 by powellswood
By Jackie LaVerne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery
What?! Did that say eat fuchsia berries?!
Yes! It did!
It does not seem to be commonly known to folks who are growing fuchsias in their gardens that they are growing berries. Usually people think of those dark squishy things as a menace and a mess in their yards. But they are actually very tasty berries that can be used in many ways, including salads, muffins, tarts, garnishes, jams, jellies, even pies (although you really have to collect a lot to make pie!), and the berries are also just great to pick and eat all by themselves. And the flowers are edible too.
All fuchsias produce berries, although some varieties have much better tasting fruit than others. The berries are produced as the flowers on the plants mature and fall off. What is left behind is either a round or elliptical-shaped berry. The berries can grow to almost an inch long on some hybrids and species fuchsias, or to just 1/2-inch on the miniature Encliandra-type fuchsias. Single-bloom fuchsias produce more fruit than double-bloom fuchsias. Fuchsia berries can taste very peppery to very sweet, almost like a kiwi. The berries of Fuchsia procumbens, the groundcover fuchsia, are my personal favorite; they get very large and are very sweet.
Late summer through fall is a good time to harvest fuchsia berries. Pick the berries when they are soft and squishy; test them by tasting them to make sure that they are sweet. Be sure to use them promptly, as they do not keep well and will go bad quickly once picked. If you need to save up large quantities of fruit for a pie or tart, freeze them immediately like any other berry. When harvesting the berries keep in mind that the dark fruit will stain clothes and fingers, so remember to dress accordingly!
You can use your own berry recipes and substitute fuchsia berries, or here are two great fuchsia berry recipes to try. Do you have a favorite fuchsia berry recipe to share? We’d love to hear from you!
Fuchsia Berry Jelly
1 cup fuchsia flowers
1 cup ripe, washed fuchsia berries
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups of water (or apple juice or apple cider)
1 apple, sweet, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin
Simmer flowers, berries, sugar, lemon juice, water, and apple for 10 minutes. Let mixture cool a bit, then strain it. Add the gelatin and allow to thicken in refrigerator.
Fuchsia Berry Jam
1 lb. sugar
2 tablespoons water (or apple pectin, apple juice or cider)
juice of 1 lemon
1 ½ lb. of ripe fuchsia berries, washed
Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan and cook carefully over low heat until sugar dissolves. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Add the berries gently, folding them into the mixture so as not to break up the berries too much. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil. Boil until the mixture will set when tested on a plate. Seal in heated jars. Allow to cool completely before eating, then enjoy! [source - retrieved from http://powellswood.wordpress.com/2010/09/09/fuchsias-101-how-to-eat-fuchsia-berries/ on 12/21/2014]
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
[/size][/b]
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, Fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue'
Other names: Fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue', Fuchsia 'Prodigy', Hardy fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue'
Genus: Fuchsia
Variety or Cultivar: 'Enfant Prodigue' _ 'Enfant Prodigue' is an upright, bushy, deciduous shrub with ovate, toothed, dark green leaves, and, throughout summer, flower with red sepals and semi-double, purple to purple-blue corollas.
Fuchsia 'Enfant Prodigue' is: Deciduous
Flower: Red in Summer
Foliage: Dark-green in Spring; Dark-green in Summer; Dark-green in Autumn
Habit: Upright [source - retrieved from http://www.shootgardening.co.uk/plant/fuchsia-enfant-prodigue on 3/15/2015]
Bloomtime Range:Early Summer to Late Summer USDA Hardiness Zone:9 to 11 AHS Heat Zone:Not defined for this plant Light Range:Part Shade to Full Sun pH Range:5 to 7 Soil Range:Sandy Loam to Loam Water Range:Normal to Moist
Fertilizing
How-to : Fertilization for Established Plants
Established plants can benefit from fertilization. Take a visual inventory of your landscape. Trees need to be fertilized every few years. Shrubs and other plants in the landscape can be fertilized yearly. A soil test can determine existing nutrient levels in the soil. If one or more nutrients is low, a specific instead of an all-purpose fertilizer may be required. Fertilizers that are high in N, nitrogen, will promote green leafy growth. Excess nitrogen in the soil can cause excessive vegetative growth on plants at the expense of flower bud development. It is best to avoid fertilizing late in the growing season.Applications made at that time can force lush, vegetative growth that will not have a chance to harden off before the onset of cold weather.
How-to : Fertilization for Annuals and Perennials
Annuals and perennials may be fertilized using: 1.water-soluble, quick release fertilizers; 2. temperature controlled slow-release fertilizers; or 3. organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion. Water soluble fertilizers are generally used every two weeks during the growing season or per label instructions. Controlled, slow-release fertilizers are worked into the soil ususally only once during the growing season or per label directions. For organic fertilizers such as fish emulsion, follow label directions as they may vary per product.
Light
Conditions : Partial Shade
Partial Shade is defined as filtered light found beneath trees with high limbs. Partial shade usually offers some protection from direct afternoon sun.
Conditions : Types of Pruning
Types of pruning include: pinching, thinning, shearing and rejuvenating.
Pinching is removing the stem tips of a young plant to promote branching. Doing this avoids the need for more severe pruning later on.
Thinning involves removing whole branches back to the trunk. This may be done to open up the interior of a plant to let more light in and to increase air circulation that can cut down on plant disease. The best way to begin thinning is to begin by removing dead or diseased wood.
Shearing is leveling the surface of a shrub using hand or electric shears. This is done to maintain the desired shape of a hedge or topiary.
Rejuvenating is removal of old branches or the overall reduction of the size of a shrub to restore its original form and size. It is recommended that you do not remove more than one third of a plant at a time. Remember to remove branches from the inside of the plant as well as the outside. When rejuvenating plants with canes, such as nandina, cut back canes at various heights so that plant will have a more natural look.
Conditions : Full Sun
Full Sun is defined as exposure to more than 6 hours of continuous, direct sun per day.
Watering
Problems : Waterlogged Soil and Solutions
Waterlogged soil occurs when more water is added to soil than can drain out in a reasonable amount of time. This can be a severe problem where water tables are high or soils are compacted. Lack of air space in waterlogged soil makes it almost impossible for soil to drain. Few plants, except for bog plants, can tolerate these conditions. Drainage must be improved if you are not satisfied with bog gardening. Over-watered plants have the same wilted leaves as under-watered plants. Fungi such as Phytophthora and Pythium affect vascular systems, which cause wilt.
If the problem is only on the surface, it maybe diverted to a drainage ditch. If drainage is poor where water table is high, install an underground drainage system. You should contact a contractor for this. If underground drains already exist, check to see if they are blocked.
French drains are another option. French drains are ditches that have been filled with gravel. It is okay to plant sod on top of them. More obtrusive, but a good solution where looks aren't as important, think of the French drain as a ditch filled with gravel. Ditches should be 3 to 4 feet deep and have sloping sides.
A soakway is a gravel filled pit where water is diverted to via underground pipes. This works well on sites that have compacted soil. Your soakway should be about 6'wide and deep and filled with gravel or crushed stone, topped with sand and sodded or seeded.
Keep in mind that it is illegal to divert water onto other people's property. If you do not feel that you can implement a workable solution on your own, call a contractor.
Conditions : Regular Moisture for Outdoor Plants
Water when normal rainfall does not provide the preferred 1 inch of moisture most plants prefer. Average water is needed during the growing season, but take care not to overwater. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
Conditions : Moist and Well Drained
Moist and well drained means exactly what it sounds like. Soil is moist without being soggy because the texture of the soil allows excess moisture to drain away. Most plants like about 1 inch of water per week. Amending your soil with compost will help improve texture and water holding or draining capacity. A 3 inch layer of mulch will help to maintain soil moisture and studies have shown that mulched plants grow faster than non-mulched plants.
Conditions : Outdoor Watering
Plants are almost completely made up of water so it is important to supply them with adequate water to maintain good plant health. Not enough water and roots will wither and the plant will wilt and die. Too much water applied too frequently deprives roots of oxygen leading to plant diseases such as root and stem rots. The type of plant, plant age, light level, soil type and container size all will impact when a plant needs to be watered. Follow these tips to ensure successful watering:
* The key to watering is water deeply and less frequently. When watering, water well, i.e. provide enough water to thoroughly saturate the root ball. With in-ground plants, this means thoroughly soaking the soil until water has penetrated to a depth of 6 to 7 inches (1' being better). With container grown plants, apply enough water to allow water to flow through the drainage holes.
* Try to water plants early in the day or later in the afternoon to conserve water and cut down on plant stress. Do water early enough so that water has had a chance to dry from plant leaves prior to night fall. This is paramount if you have had fungus problems.
* Don't wait to water until plants wilt. Although some plants will recover from this, all plants will die if they wilt too much (when they reach the permanent wilting point).
* Consider water conservation methods such as drip irrigation, mulching, and xeriscaping. Drip systems which slowly drip moisture directly on the root system can be purchased at your local home and garden center. Mulches can significantly cool the root zone and conserve moisture.
* Consider adding water-saving gels to the root zone which will hold a reserve of water for the plant. These can make a world of difference especially under stressful conditions. Be certain to follow label directions for their use.
Conditions : Normal Watering for Outdoor Plants
Normal watering means that soil should be kept evenly moist and watered regularly, as conditions require. Most plants like 1 inch of water a week during the growing season, but take care not to over water. The first two years after a plant is installed, regular watering is important for establishment. The first year is critical. It is better to water once a week and water deeply, than to water frequently for a few minutes.
Planting
How-to : Planting Vines & Climbers
Choose the planting site for your climber carefully: its long flexible stems may need some shelter, but planting right next to a wall might keep it from the sun or water it needs. Make sure that there's room for the climber to grow when it gets tall, and remember that it will grow towards the sun unless carefully trained. Be sure you will be able to manage the plant once it becomes tall, or that if it has a mind of its own, it won't become a problem.
Select a support structure before you plant your climber. Common support structures are trellises, wires, strings, or existing structures. Some plants, like ivy, climb by aerial roots and need no support. Aerial rooted climbers are fine for concrete and masonary, but should never be allowed to climb on wood. Clematis climbs by leaf stalks and the Passion flower by coiling tendrils. Akebia and Wisteria climb by twining stems in a spiral fashion around its support.
Do not use permanent ties; the plant will quickly outgrow them. Use soft, flexible ties (twist-ties work well), or even strips of pantyhose, and check them every few months. Make sure that your support structure is strong, rust-proof, and will last the life of the plant. Anchor your support structure before you plant your climber.
Dig a hole large enough for the root ball. Plant the climber at the same level it was in the container. Plant a little deeper for clematis or for grafted plants. Fill the hole with soil, firming as you, and water well. As soon as the stems are long enough to reach their support structure, gently and loosely tie them as necessary.
If planting in a container, follow the same guidelines. Plan ahead by adding a trellis to the pot, especially if the container will not be positioned where a support for the vine is not readily available. It is possible for vines and climbers to ramble on the ground or cascade over walls too. Clematis and Roses actually work quite well this way.
How-to : Preparing Garden Beds
Use a soil testing kit to determine the acidity or alkalinity of the soil before beginning any garden bed preparation. This will help you determine which plants are best suited for your site. Check soil drainage and correct drainage where standing water remains. Clear weeds and debris from planting areas and continue to remove weeds as soon as they come up.
A week to 10 days before planting, add 2 to 4 inches of aged manure or compost and work into the planting site to improve fertility and increase water retention and drainage. If soil composition is weak, a layer of topsoil should be considered as well. No matter if your soil is sand or clay, it can be improved by adding the same thing: organic matter. The more, the better; work deep into the soil. Prepare beds to an 18 inch deep for perennials. This will seem like a tremendous amount of work now, but will greatly pay off later. Besides, this is not something that is easily done later, once plants have been established. [source - retrieved from http://www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pda_367b.html on 3/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Fuchsias 101 – How to Eat Fuchsia Berries
September 9, 2010 by powellswood
By Jackie LaVerne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery
What?! Did that say eat fuchsia berries?!
Yes! It did!
It does not seem to be commonly known to folks who are growing fuchsias in their gardens that they are growing berries. Usually people think of those dark squishy things as a menace and a mess in their yards. But they are actually very tasty berries that can be used in many ways, including salads, muffins, tarts, garnishes, jams, jellies, even pies (although you really have to collect a lot to make pie!), and the berries are also just great to pick and eat all by themselves. And the flowers are edible too.
All fuchsias produce berries, although some varieties have much better tasting fruit than others. The berries are produced as the flowers on the plants mature and fall off. What is left behind is either a round or elliptical-shaped berry. The berries can grow to almost an inch long on some hybrids and species fuchsias, or to just 1/2-inch on the miniature Encliandra-type fuchsias. Single-bloom fuchsias produce more fruit than double-bloom fuchsias. Fuchsia berries can taste very peppery to very sweet, almost like a kiwi. The berries of Fuchsia procumbens, the groundcover fuchsia, are my personal favorite; they get very large and are very sweet.
Late summer through fall is a good time to harvest fuchsia berries. Pick the berries when they are soft and squishy; test them by tasting them to make sure that they are sweet. Be sure to use them promptly, as they do not keep well and will go bad quickly once picked. If you need to save up large quantities of fruit for a pie or tart, freeze them immediately like any other berry. When harvesting the berries keep in mind that the dark fruit will stain clothes and fingers, so remember to dress accordingly!
You can use your own berry recipes and substitute fuchsia berries, or here are two great fuchsia berry recipes to try. Do you have a favorite fuchsia berry recipe to share? We’d love to hear from you!
Fuchsia Berry Jelly
1 cup fuchsia flowers
1 cup ripe, washed fuchsia berries
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups of water (or apple juice or apple cider)
1 apple, sweet, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin
Simmer flowers, berries, sugar, lemon juice, water, and apple for 10 minutes. Let mixture cool a bit, then strain it. Add the gelatin and allow to thicken in refrigerator.
Fuchsia Berry Jam
1 lb. sugar
2 tablespoons water (or apple pectin, apple juice or cider)
juice of 1 lemon
1 ½ lb. of ripe fuchsia berries, washed
Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan and cook carefully over low heat until sugar dissolves. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Add the berries gently, folding them into the mixture so as not to break up the berries too much. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil. Boil until the mixture will set when tested on a plate. Seal in heated jars. Allow to cool completely before eating, then enjoy! [source - retrieved from http://powellswood.wordpress.com/2010/09/09/fuchsias-101-how-to-eat-fuchsia-berries/ on 12/21/2014]
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
[/size][/b]
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically Fuchsia 'Lorna Doone'
Other names: Fuchsia 'Lorna Doone'
Genus: Fuchsia
Variety or Cultivar: 'Lorna Doone' _ Lorna Doone' is an upright, bushy, deciduous shrub with ovate, toothed, dark green leaves, and, throughout summer, flowers with red sepals and single to semi-double, rose-pink corollas.
Fuchsia 'Lorna Doone' is: Deciduous
Flower: Red in Summer
Foliage: Dark-green in Spring; Dark-green in Summer; Dark-green in Autumn
Habit: Upright [source - retrieved from http://www.shootgardening.co.uk/plant/fuchsia-lorna-doone on 3/15/2015]
Semi-double rosy-mauve corolla with broad, upturned sepals of crimson. Blooms in early summer to early August. The fuchsia has oval, green leaves and produce fruits that are edible but not appetizing. Mulch heavily where winters are cold. Prune back dead or broken branches in spring, especially on plants that were left outside in areas with mild winters. Cooler summer temperatures make Fuchsias a favorite for the Pacific Northwest.
Characteristics
Cultivar:Lorna Doone Family:Onagraceae Size:Height: 2.5 ft. to 6 ft.
Width: 1.67 ft. to 3 ft. Plant Category:edibles, landscape, perennials, shrubs, Plant Characteristics:decorative berries or fruit, seed start, weeping, Foliage Characteristics:small leaves, deciduous, Foliage Color:green, Flower Characteristics:pendent, showy, Flower Color:purples, reds, Tolerances: Requirements
Bloomtime Range:Early Summer to Late Summer USDA Hardiness Zone:9 to 11 AHS Heat Zone:Not defined for this plant Light Range:Part Shade to Full Sun pH Range:5 to 7 Soil Range:Sandy Loam to Loam Water Range:Normal to Moist [source - retrieved from http://www.backyardgardener.com/plantname/pda_d5d7.html on 3/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Fuchsias 101 – How to Eat Fuchsia Berries
September 9, 2010 by powellswood
By Jackie LaVerne, PowellsWood Gardener & Consultant and Owner of Magellanica Gardens Nursery
What?! Did that say eat fuchsia berries?!
Yes! It did!
It does not seem to be commonly known to folks who are growing fuchsias in their gardens that they are growing berries. Usually people think of those dark squishy things as a menace and a mess in their yards. But they are actually very tasty berries that can be used in many ways, including salads, muffins, tarts, garnishes, jams, jellies, even pies (although you really have to collect a lot to make pie!), and the berries are also just great to pick and eat all by themselves. And the flowers are edible too.
All fuchsias produce berries, although some varieties have much better tasting fruit than others. The berries are produced as the flowers on the plants mature and fall off. What is left behind is either a round or elliptical-shaped berry. The berries can grow to almost an inch long on some hybrids and species fuchsias, or to just 1/2-inch on the miniature Encliandra-type fuchsias. Single-bloom fuchsias produce more fruit than double-bloom fuchsias. Fuchsia berries can taste very peppery to very sweet, almost like a kiwi. The berries of Fuchsia procumbens, the groundcover fuchsia, are my personal favorite; they get very large and are very sweet.
Late summer through fall is a good time to harvest fuchsia berries. Pick the berries when they are soft and squishy; test them by tasting them to make sure that they are sweet. Be sure to use them promptly, as they do not keep well and will go bad quickly once picked. If you need to save up large quantities of fruit for a pie or tart, freeze them immediately like any other berry. When harvesting the berries keep in mind that the dark fruit will stain clothes and fingers, so remember to dress accordingly!
You can use your own berry recipes and substitute fuchsia berries, or here are two great fuchsia berry recipes to try. Do you have a favorite fuchsia berry recipe to share? We’d love to hear from you!
Fuchsia Berry Jelly
1 cup fuchsia flowers
1 cup ripe, washed fuchsia berries
1 cup sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups of water (or apple juice or apple cider)
1 apple, sweet, peeled and chopped
2 tablespoons of unflavored gelatin
Simmer flowers, berries, sugar, lemon juice, water, and apple for 10 minutes. Let mixture cool a bit, then strain it. Add the gelatin and allow to thicken in refrigerator.
Fuchsia Berry Jam
1 lb. sugar
2 tablespoons water (or apple pectin, apple juice or cider)
juice of 1 lemon
1 ½ lb. of ripe fuchsia berries, washed
Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in a pan and cook carefully over low heat until sugar dissolves. Set aside and allow to cool completely. Add the berries gently, folding them into the mixture so as not to break up the berries too much. Bring the mixture slowly to a boil. Boil until the mixture will set when tested on a plate. Seal in heated jars. Allow to cool completely before eating, then enjoy! [source - retrieved from http://powellswood.wordpress.com/2010/09/09/fuchsias-101-how-to-eat-fuchsia-berries/ on 12/21/2014]
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
AN IMPORTANT ITEM ON A COMMON TROUBLESOME PLANT PROBLEM:
Instead of a rare fruit tree or vegetable, today is information on a troublesome plant problem – Sooty Mold.
How To Get Rid Of Sooty Mold
Image by Joseph O'Brien, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org
By Heather Rhoades
If your plant has started to look like it has been spending time sitting next to a fire and is now covered in a black soot, chances are, your plant is suffering from sooty mold. How to get rid of sooty mold can be a perplexing question as it may seem that it appears out of nowhere, but it is a fixable problem.
What is Sooty Mold?
Sooty mold is a type of plant mold. It is a type of mold that growing in the honeydew or secretion of many common plant pests, such as aphids or scale. The pests cover the leaves of your plant in honeydew and the sooty mold spore lands on the honeydew and begins to reproduce.
Symptoms of Sooty Plant Mold Growth
Sooty mold looks a lot like the name implies. Your plant’s twigs, branches or leaves will be covered in a grimy, black soot. Many people believe that someone may have dumped ashes or may have even caught the plant on fire when they first see this plant mold.
Most plants affected by this plant mold growth will also have some sort of pest problem. Some plants, like gardenias and roses, which are prone to pest problems, will be more susceptible to this plant mold growth.
How to Get Rid of Sooty Mold
Treating plant mold like sooty mold is best done by treating the source of the problem. This would be the pests that excrete the honeydew the mold needs to live.
First, determine which pest you have and then eliminate it from your plant. Once the pest problem has been solved, the sooty plant mold growth can be easily washed off the leaves, stems and branches.
Neem oil is an effective treatment for both the pest problem and fungus.
Will Sooty Mold Kill My Plant?
This plant mold growth is generally not lethal to plants, but the pests that it needs to grow can kill a plant. At the first sign of sooty mold, find the pest that is producing the honeydew and eliminate it.
Sooty Mold
Plants Affected:
•
•
•
Images of This Plant Disease:
Sooty mold appears as black fuzz on the needles of affected trees
Related Content From HHPN
• Sooty Mold
• Lawn and Garden Molds and Fungi
• Black Vine Weevils Appear Again
• Determining Plant Quantity
• Tips for Selecting Quality Plants, Seeds, and Bare Roots
• What Causes Plant Disease?
• Black Mold of Onion
• Stink Bugs and Similar-Appearing Insects in Iowa
Sooty mold fungi cause needles, branches, or leaves of trees or shrubs to appear black. The common name "sooty mold" is descriptive of the black coating or crust that is formed on these plant surfaces.
Several different species of fungi often exist together to cause the sooty appearance. These fungi don't infect plants, but grow on the sugary honeydew excreted by aphids, scales, mealybugs, and other insects.
The growth of these fungi is primarily an aesthetic problem, although they can be detrimental to plant health by blocking sunlight and interfering with photosynthesis.
Control of sooty mold is targeted at preventing or reducing insect populations. Scales and aphids are usually the culprits in sooty mold infestations. It's important to identify the species of insect present to determine what control measures to apply and when.
Black mold (often called sooty mold) is a fungus that infects bushes, coating the leaves and branches with a thin layer of dark gray or black mold. It can be caused by just one fungus or several of them, and occurs when sucking insects infest your plant. The insects excrete honeydew, a sticky substance that fungal spores land on. The mold can appear soft, like velvet, or it can be hard and crusty. This fungal disease is unattractive, and severe infestations may stunt the growth of your plant or cause it to wilt--but black mold is not deadly.
Read more: How to Get Rid of Black Mold on Bushes | Garden Guides
Step 1
Clear the area around your bush, if possible. Exposure to sunlight and air helps lessen, or even stop, the growth of fungi.
Step 2
Rinse off the mold with a strong spray of water. Add a teaspoon of liquid soap to the spray to help aid in cleaning the bush. Test an area of the bush first to see if the soap will damage it. Spray a few leaves, then wait a week. If the leaves appear unchanged, blast the entire bush with water until as much of the mold is rinsed off as possible.
Step 3
Get rid of the underlying cause of the mold. Examine your plant for chewing or sucking insects such as aphids, scale, or mealybugs. Look for a sticky residue (honeydew) on the leaves or around the bush. Ants feed on honeydew, so a large population of ants in and around the bush is another clue.
Step 4
Spray your bush with an application of insecticide. You may need to re-apply the poison a week to 10 days after the first application in order to completely rid the plant of the insect pests. Monitor your bush carefully, and treat it again at the first sign of insect pests.
Black Sooty Mold on Landscape Plants
What is this black, sooty mold on my landscape plants?
At certain times of the year, particularly during the summer months, you are bound to notice a plant or
two in your landscape that has a black fungus growing on the leaves. The culprit is none other than
Capnodium, a type of fungus commonly
known as black sooty mold. Sooty mold
appears as a black staining or powdery
coating on leaves and stems. While the
black leaves may become unsightly, sooty
mold itself does not directly harm the
plant. Instead the black fungus affects the
plant indirectly by shading the leaves
which interferes with photosynthesis,
potentially slowing plant growth and
reducing the long-term vigor of the plant.
Where does it come from?
Sooty mold grows on a substance called “honeydew” which is excreted from certain insects such
as aphids, soft scales, whiteflies and mealybugs. These insects feed on a variety of landscape plants and
can be found on the leaves and stems where they use special mouthparts to pierce plant tissues and suck
out the juices from within. During this time these insects excrete large amounts of a sticky, sugary
substance commonly called “honeydew”. The excreted honeydew coats leaves, stems, and fruit,
stimulating the growth of sooty mold.
Baker County Extension
Alicia R. Lamborn
Environmental Horticulture Agent
1025 West Macclenny Avenue
Macclenny, FL 32063
904-259-3520 email: alamborn@ufl.edu http://baker.ifas.ufl.edu
Figure 1: Sooty mold on holly, resulting from a
Florida wax scale infestation.
Honeydew Producing Insects
Figure 2: Mealybugs. Figure 3: Hemispherical scale on coontie.
Figure 4: Florida wax scales along leaf veins.
Figure 5: Whitefly adult (left) resembling a
moth and immature nymphs (right) which
resemble scale insects.
Figure 6: Aphids feeding on a plant stem.
How can I get rid of the black mold?
Before you run out to purchase a fungicide to rid your plant of the black sooty mold, there is
something you should know. The black mold will only go away once the insect pest is controlled. To rid
your plants of these insects, you can spray them with an insecticidal soap or lightweight horticultural oil
such as neem oil. Be sure to spray all parts of the plant, including the undersides of the leaves, and follow
the label directions, repeating the treatment as directed on the label or at weekly intervals as necessary.
Sooty mold usually weathers away following control of the insect infestation through the actions
of sun, rain, and wind. Sprays of insecticidal soaps and/or horticultural oils used for control of these
insects also help to loosen and remove sooty
mold. Other products are also effective in
controlling these insects but before purchasing a
product, determine which insect is causing the
problem and always remember to read the label of
the product you are using first. Try to avoid using
broad-spectrum insecticides if possible since these
kill beneficial insects that prey on these pests.
Available Products*
Neem Oil
(Aphids, Whiteflies)
Bonide Safer BioNeem®
Green Light Neem®
Green Light Rose Defense®
Southern Ag Triple Action Neem Oil®
Paraffinic Oil
(Aphids, Whiteflies)
Bonide All Seasons Horticultural and Dormant Spray Oil®
SunSpray Horticultural Oil®
Fish Oil
(Scales & Mealybugs)
Organocide®
Horticultural Oil
(Scales & Mealybugs)
Volvk®
Potassium Salts Safer's Insecticidal Soap®
Figure 7: Cottony cushion scale crawlers
(immature scales) on sooty mold-covered adults.
How can I prevent further infestations?
Our cultural practices in the landscape can help prevent further insect and sooty mold infestations.
Over-pruning, over-watering and fertilizing can stimulate the growth of succulent new plant tissues,
which is particularly appetizing for these insects. Established plants in the landscape shouldn’t need
much (if any) supplemental water or fertilizer and pruning during the dormant season (January to
February) will prevent the stimulated growth of new shoots.
In addition to cultural practices, early detection and control of the
insect pest will halt further development of the sooty mold fungus. Even
if you aren’t observing the black sooty mold on your plants, ants may be
one of the first signs that you may have a problem with a honeydewproducing
insect. Ants feed on the honeydew and will actually help to
guard these pests from predators. Therefore, when ants are observed,
plants should be examined closely for these pests. Also, scouting your
landscape often and spot treating pests as soon as you see them will
prevent heavy infestations and save you the headache of having to treat
large areas.
While our cultural practices may not completely eliminate our
insect pest and sooty mold problems, they will, along with scouting and
spot-treating, help keep insect populations lower and more manageable
during the summer months when this is a common problem.
*Note: Identifying the pest should be your first step to controlling it. While pictures of aphids, scales, whiteflies and
mealybugs are pictured in the publication and control measures are all similar in nature, not all species of these insects
look alike and some look very similar to beneficial insects. For instance, aphids can be found in an array of colors,
including red, orange, green, yellow, and black. Scale insects vary in shape, size, and color and armored scales do not
produce honeydew like soft scales. Certain species of ladybug larvae resemble mealybug pests but are actually
beneficial since they eat aphids. If you need assistance identifying an insect in your landscape, please contact the
Baker County Extension Office or your local county Extension office for assistance.
* The use of trade names is solely for the purpose of providing specific information. It is not a guarantee of warranty
of the products names and does not signify they are approved to the exclusion of others of suitable comparison.
Figure 8: Ants eat insect
honeydew and are a sign
of a pest infestation.
The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and
other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex,
sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service,
University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically the Hydrocotyle umbellata, is an aquatic plant that thrives in wet, sandy habitat. ItsEnglish common name is manyflower marsh pennywort or dollarweed. It is native to North America and parts of South America. It can also be found growing as an introduced species and sometimes a noxious weed on other continents. It is an edible weed that can be used in salads or as a pot herb.[1][2][3]
References[edit]
1. Jump up^ Florida's Wild Edibles Richard J. Deuerling and Peggy S. Lantz, Florida Native Plant Society
2. Jump up^ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YW5xmNW98cY&feature=channel_page
3. Jump up^ [sourc - retrieved from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrocotyle_umbellata on 3/15/2015]
Dollarweed
Scientific name: Hydrocotyle spp.
Abundance: plentiful
What: leaves, stems
How: raw
Where: yards, marshes, water
When: spring, summer, fall
Nutritional Value: some minerals
Dangers: Thoroughly wash plants collected from water to remove any harmful bacteria.
Dollarweed is a common yard weed most of the year except during times of frost. It has a taste somewhat similar to cucumber peels. I prefer the younger, more tender, nickel-sized "circles" over larger ones. The larger ones have a dry, slightly bitter taste.
Dollarweeds of all sizes can be fermented like cabbage to make "dollarweed-kraut" or a yard-based version of kimchee. Just pick the circles, leave the stingy, tough stems behind. [sourc - retrieved from http://www.foragingtexas.com/2006/03/dollarweed.html on 3/15/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
Here is a Commentary on Bountiful Trees and Vegetables God (YHWH) has provided for mankind, specifically the Laurus nobilis & Persea borbonia var. borbonia, Bay Laurel
Scientific name: Laurus nobilis & Persea borbonia var. borbonia
Abundance: plentiful
What: nuts, leaves
How: roast nuts, used leaf as seasoning
Where: woods, borders
When: leaves all year, nuts in the fall
Nutritional Value: Calcium, iron, other minerals, vitamins A, C, B6, folate.
Other uses: nuts contain a mild stimulant
Dangers: Looks similar to the very poisonous cherry laurel. The leaves of cherry laurel smell like cherry/cyanide and have toothed edges while bay laurel leaves have smooth edges and smell like Italian seasoning.
Texas has multiple types of bay trees. Around Houston the most common are sweet bay (Laurus nobilis), redbay (Persea borbonia) and laurel cherry (Prunus caroliniana). All three grow in the same environment, preferably as understory trees in moist, shaded areas. Very slow growing, most you’ll find will be small trees around 20’ tall. However, mature trees can rival oaks in size and appearance. Crushed sweet bay and redbay leaves have a wonderful bay aroma while laurel cherry smells like bitter almonds or artificial cherry scent. That bitter almond smell is poisonous cyanide and the so the leaves of the laurel cherry should not be used as a seasoning or consumed in any other manner.
Besides scent, the toxic laurel cherry trees can be distinguished from safe sweet bay and redbay by the edges of their leaves. The sweet bay and redbay leaf edges will be smooth while the dangerous laurel cherry leaves will have teeth, ranging in number from two very small ones near the base to many all along the leaf edge.
The leaves of the sweet bay and redbay are available all year long and are added to sauces and other foods where one would traditionally use bay leaves. They do have a very potent flavor, so you usually don't need to add more than 3-4. They can be used fresh or dried. Add the leaves while cooking but remove them before serving as no bay leaves should actually be eaten. Supposedly these stiff, hard leaves can penetrate an intestine.
In the fall the dark nuts are toasted and then nibbled on as a strongly-flavored snack. Remove the soft flesh from the bay nut then roll the nuts around in a very hot pan until they start to split open. Remove the outer brittle husk then return the inner meat back to the pan for a final toasting. No oil or grease is needed. These toasted nuts can also be ground and used as a seasoning.
Labels: Blue Fruit, Borders, Fall, Landscaping, Nuts, Plentiful,Seasoning, Spring, Summer, Tree, Winter, Woods,[source - retrived from http://www.foragingtexas.com/2008/08/bay-laurel_20.html html on 3/23/2015]
In Genesis 1:11-13, "And God said, Let the earth put forth grass, herbs yielding seed, and fruit-trees bearing fruit after their kind, wherein is the seed thereof, upon the earth: and it was so. 12 And the earth brought forth grass, herbs yielding seed after their kind, and trees bearing fruit, wherein is the seed thereof, after their kind: and God saw that it was good. 13 And there was evening and there was morning, a third day. (American Standard Version, ASV)[for more details, go to www.jw.org].
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
For yet a little while, and the wicked shall not be: Yea, thou shalt diligently consider his place, and he shall not be. 11 But the meek shall inherit the land, And shall delight themselves in the abundance of peace. Psalm 37:10-11) [American Standard Version; ASV]
When Almighty God’s (YHWH’s) kingdom that we pray for in Matthew 6:9-10, “After this manner therefore pray ye. Our Father who art in heaven, Hallowed be thy name. 10 Thy kingdom come. Thy will be done, as in heaven, so on earth,” peace will exist because Almighty God will make wars cease to the ends of the earth. (Psalms 46:9). And then “In his days shall the righteous flourish, And abundance of peace, till the moon be no more,” Psalm 72:7.
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
because it is written, Ye shall be holy; for I am holy. 1 Peter 1:16 [American Standard Version; ASV]
To be holy, we must first grasp exactly what ‘holy’ means. This word is translated from a word basically meaning to be set aside or separated from the usual things around it. Of course it is to be noted that Almighty God (YHWH) did NOT say that we must be as holy as he is. He never expects the impossible from us (Psalm 10:13 – 14). Rather, He tells us to be holy because he is holy, per Ephesians 5:1, “Be ye therefore imitators of God, as beloved children;” [ASV]. So achieving holiness is an ongoing process of keeping ourselves separate from the wicked worlds’ evil ways. Thus, as we grow spiritually, we work at ever growing in holiness per 2 Corinthians 7:1, “Having therefore these promises, beloved, let us cleanse ourselves from all defilement of flesh and spirit, perfecting holiness in the fear of God.” [ASV].
TO LEARN MORE ABOUT RELIGION AND THE BIBLE, GO TO,
Francis David said it long ago, "Neither the sword of popes...nor the image of death will halt the march of truth. "Francis David, 1579, written on the wall of his prison cell." Read the book, "What Does The Bible Really Teach" and the Bible today, and go to www.jw.org!
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
